George's Rear Window Louvers

George, who has modified and augmented every piece of hardware on his Geo Metro, showed me his latest work, an internally mounted rear window louver (or is it louvers?).

Pretty classy!

You can see how the vertical struts have holes reminiscent of aircraft framework.

He sawed, sanded and filed the curves by hand.

The top just snaps in place with those two brackets.

He has a small gap between the window and the louver so the defroster doesn't get screwed up.

The slotted elements are retained by ball bearings. He used slingshot ammo.

He said that you just spring the strip away from the hole and snap the ball in.

The sides, rather than using balls, are peened over to hold the strips.

The only place it is bolted is at the bottom to the brake light.

You can see George's hat...

Fracking Toaster!

Well the toaster developed a problem. The lever was loose and wouldn't push down enough to engage the switch. I was irritated by this until I realized I could make an excellent Battlestar Galactica reference if I blogged about the repair.

So I unscrewed the base.

And unplugged the two leads from the slot selector switch.

If you look closely you will see a raised whitish bump above where the metal arm goes into the plastic. This is why the lever can wiggle, as it has broken through the plastic. Bad engineering!

This is how it should look.

This is how it is when pushed down. This prevents the switch from locking the toaster and starting the cycle, as the lever hits the circuit board below, preventing the toast carriage from travelling down as far as it should.

My first thought was that by shimming out the lever arm with some thin steel strips, it would spread the load on the plastic and prevent it from wiggling.

All that happened was that it still wiggled, and finally broke off the lever retaining piece from the plastic assembly.

So in a last attempt to fix it, I resorted to JB Weld, which is a wonderful metal filled epoxy. Their website shows it as resistant to heat of 500 degrees F, which should be fine for the toaster.

I mixed up a dollop.

And filled the slot.

I reassembled the toaster and inserted the lever, making sure it was oriented correctly. I let the epoxy harden for 24 hours.

The proof is in the pudding, or rather the Nature's Path Organic Toaster Pastries, Strawberry Frosted , which I was able to toast to perfection as a companion to my afternoon coffee.

Scribing a Line

Ok, this is a pretty stupid project. Felice uses the end of a stepped ring mandrel to make her Sterling Silver Fancy Loop Hoop Earrings but was having problems getting the top and bottom features in line. She asked if I could scribe a line across the center of the face. So I did.

I put the end of the mandrel in a vee block, and supported the far end with a Starrett Jack.

I brought the scriber of the digital height gage down onto the top of the mandrel with a .002" thick piece of paper in between, until the scriber grabbed the paper.

I then zeroed the gage, moved down .002, then zeroed again and moved down .499", which is half the diameter of the mandrel end.

I moved the scriber across the face to make a line.

A nice line on center. Hard to see in the pictures, but much more pronounced in real life.

Now Felice can make sure things line up.

I then remembered that I could use the center finding head on my Starrett Combination Square to do the same thing in about 30 seconds. Oh well...

Oobleck

Cornstarch and Water make a non-Newtonian fluid, generally called "Oobleck".

Henry and Max mix it up.

Just a little messy.

Max really gets into it.

Ok, it's insanely messy...

Max also enjoyed watching "Sh! The Octopus" last night on TCM. I wish it was available on Netflix as it was possibly one of the most insane movies I've ever seen.

I started another blog, that will be only about my airgun obsession, so as to not further horrify people here with too many airgun posts:

Another Airgun Blog

Scotch Brite Hand Pad Comparison

I use Scotch Brite abrasives to put a brushed finish on some of the jewelry I make.
Recently I decided to be a bit more scientific, and bought 4 types, with different degrees of fineness.

A copper sheet was used for the test. Sterling would have been better, but I can't afford to sacrifice that much to science.

6444 Medium

7447 Very Fine

7448 Ultra Fine

7445 Super Fine


I use the 7448 Ultra Fine for most work, and the 7447 Very Fine for some basic scratch removal beforehand, should the work need it. I don't see a big difference between the 7447 and the 6444 Medium in terms of scratch pattern. I have used the 7445 Ultra Fine before polishing to good effect once or twice. Anyway, I mostly documented this so I could remember which pad is which, as the Very Fine and Medium pads look a lot alike (one is maroon, the other brown), and there are no intelligible markings on the pads themselves.

You can even use them to clean your pots and pans!

UPDATE:
Here is the color of each pad in order from coarse to fine:
6444 Brown Medium
7447 Maroon Very Fine
7448 Light Grey Ultra Fine
7445 White Super Fine

A Day at the Coast

We got over to Newport the week before last, it started as a sunny warm day and turned into a rather cold bleak one, but we had fun. We went with our friends Josh, Kathy and Colin.

Max petted sea anemones for at least an hour. He would have stayed forever if we had let him.

At the beach a stranger gave us two kites that were surplus to his needs. I love Oregon. Max held that kite all day.

We remembered to bring beach toys, so Henry dug in the sand.

Apparently the runoff onto the beach is contaminated. We washed the kids thoroughly when we left.

Josh is an engineer, so he dug a canal.

This is probably an Auk.

The Harbor Freight Dapping Punch and Die Set

I have not needed a dapping punch and die set but I've always wanted one to play with when coming up with jewelry designs. A Dapping set is a tool that allows you to hammer metal into hemispherical and generally concave shapes, such as a hollow bead. A good quality set isn't terribly expensive and I have made my own single purpose punches and dies when the need arose but I never bought a set. Anyway, Harbor Freight has a set, made in India, for the extremely low price of $29.99, on perpetual sale. So I bought one.

The box looks nice!

A wood stand, the block and the punches.

The punches are covered in what is likely a highly toxic red oil.

I slit the bag open and grabbed each punch in a paper towel, wiping off the excess oil.

At first glance the block looks well polished...

But, as with most cheap tools, what you get is what you paid for, so there are numerous scratches, dings, blemishes and such in the hollows of the block. These can be polished out, so in essence you are trading your time perfecting the tool for the money you would have spent on a better set.

The punches are similarly imperfect, with flat spots, scratches, etc.
Some time spent sanding those out on the lathe is likely in my future.

So, not a great tool, but one that allows you to do basic doming without breaking the bank.